How to Clean Your Gutters
Safety Warning
Ladder safety is critical. Always place your ladder on firm, level ground. Never lean to the side -- instead, climb down and reposition the ladder. Consider using a ladder stabilizer that hooks over the roof edge. If your gutters are higher than one story, strongly consider hiring a professional.
Clogged gutters are one of the leading causes of water damage to homes. When gutters overflow, water seeps into fascia boards, behind siding, and into your foundation. Cleaning them twice a year -- in late spring and late fall -- prevents thousands of dollars in potential water damage.
What You'll Need
Supplies
- •Heavy-duty work gloves($10-15)
- •Plastic gutter scoop(optional)($5-8)
- •Gutter sealant (for small leaks)(optional)($5-10)
- •Large tarp or bucket (for collecting debris)($8-15)
Tools
- •Extension ladder
- •Garden hose with spray nozzle
- •Ladder stabilizer/standoff(optional)
- •Plumber's snake (for clogged downspouts)(optional)
Step-by-Step Instructions
Gather your supplies and set up your ladder
Place your extension ladder on firm, level ground at a 75-degree angle (the base should be 1 foot away from the wall for every 4 feet of height). If available, attach a ladder stabilizer to prevent the ladder from damaging the gutter and to provide a wider, more stable base at the top.
Pro Tip: Wear shoes with good grip. Wet leaves and shingle grit make ladders slippery. Never work on gutters in wet or windy conditions.
Remove large debris by hand
Starting near a downspout, use gloves to scoop out leaves, twigs, and accumulated sediment. Work your way along the gutter, dropping debris into a bucket hanging from a ladder hook or onto a tarp below. Compacted debris near the bottom may need to be loosened with a gutter scoop.
Pro Tip: A plastic gutter scoop (about $5 at any hardware store) is much more effective than your hands alone. Its curved shape matches the gutter profile and scrapes up packed sediment easily.
Flush the gutters with a hose
After removing the large debris, use a garden hose with a spray nozzle to flush remaining sediment toward the downspouts. Start at the end farthest from the downspout and work toward it. Watch the water flow to identify any low spots or areas that pool instead of draining.
Clear the downspouts
Check that water flows freely through each downspout. If water backs up, the downspout is clogged. Try flushing it with the hose inserted from the top. For stubborn clogs, use a plumber's snake or disassemble the downspout at its joints to clear the blockage.
Pro Tip: If you hear water trickling inside a downspout but nothing comes out the bottom, the clog is usually at an elbow joint. Tapping on the outside of the downspout at the elbow while running water often loosens it.
Check for damage and proper slope
While you are up there, inspect the gutters for rust spots, holes, loose hangers, or sections that have pulled away from the fascia. Check that gutters slope slightly toward the downspouts (about 1/4 inch per 10 feet). Standing water after flushing indicates a slope problem.
Make minor repairs
Re-secure any loose gutter hangers with a drill. Seal small holes or joint leaks with gutter sealant. If a section has sagged, adjust the hangers to restore proper slope. Mark any major damage for professional repair.
Pro Tip: Gutter sealant works best on clean, dry surfaces. If you find a leak during flushing, mark it with tape and come back to seal it after the gutter dries.
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